Hot Stuff!

I have a hot water faucet.

I mean, I have a boiling water faucet.

I’ve had one for years and years. I love it. But the one I had was getting old. What I had was an Insinkerator HOT1. It looked like this:

It’s not made anymore.IMG_20180712_151554.jpg

And the one I had was really showing its age. It looked like this:

It might not be obvious in that picture but it was bulging alarmingly. And the plastic shell is crumbling away; not sure using a plastic that degrades under prolonged exposure to heat is a good plan for something that’s meant to hold near-boiling water for years…decades.

I’d been looking to replace it with something better. Something more like this:

But as I’ve said, money’s pretty tight these days, so $250 for a new hot water dispenser was out of the question. Even if the one I had had failed I would not have spent the $250 to replace it.

But fortune favors the prepared mind.

So when I found this very item (with a different faucet) at the rock-bottom home repair outlet store, and it was on clearance to boot, I knew what I was looking at and that $29.75 was a pretty good price.

So I bought it.

Installing it was more or less straightforward. Getting the old one out was a little tricky. After all these years I had to search online for the installation instructions, to read how I’d installed it, so I could figure out how to de-install it. Then a quick trip to the hardware store to buy the inevitable couple of bits and pieces to make it work in my particular kitchen, and presto!



And all in one day, so I won’t have to skip any coffee.

Next time: A new roof recap!

Posted in Appliances, Plumbing

Cat Door!

Once, I made a post about how I wanted to install a cat door into my bedroom. I said I was going to do that “soon.”

Yeah…not so much soon.

In the intervening years, I had an inspiration. Then another. The first inspiration was that I could use Sonotube (The heavy cardboard tubes meant for concrete forming) to make the passage through the wall. A little paint and/or carpet inside, a little spackle around the opening, and hey bingo!

The second inspiration was that I could use a 5 gallon bucket, and put a Gamma Seal on the opening so I could close it up if I wanted. A gamma seal looks like this:

and is one of the greatest inventions I’ve seen for food storage.

So last night, I did the thing, finally.

I cut the rim off a 5-gallon bucket:


I traced around it on the wall:


And cut the hole:


After cutting away the cedar OSB from the inside side, I cut off just the bottom of a second bucket (to make it look more like a tunnel and less like “hey, that’s totally just your closet in there!), installed a Gamma Seal on it, and put it in the hole. It looks pretty good!


Why’d I wait so long? I got it into my head that it would be a big pain. And a big mess. And wanted to get my house more clean in general before making that mess.

Why’d I finally get off my butt and do it now? Because the cats are now officially old, and will not jump up the old way anymore. And soon I hope to have room mates again, which will make leaving the bedroom door open all the time a less attractive prospect. So I had to do something.

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We interrupt this mostly lack of updates for a brief appeal.

Over the summer, a severe wind-and-hail storm damaged the roof of my house. I didn’t know it was storm damage; I just knew there was a leak. I had a roofer try to patch it, then another roofer tried a different patch. Then I had a better roofer come out and asked him how much it would cost to do a quality repair.

He said there was no way. The roof is too old and damaged. But he’s the first roofer of them to tell me it was storm damage and suggest I enter an insurance claim.

Long story short, I’m getting a new roof, courtesy of my insurance company. I just have to come up with the $1000 deductible.

$1000 is a lot of money, for me, right now. But a friend has created a GoFundMe appeal to help me cover the cost of the deductible and the inevitable repairs that are adjacent to—but not covered by—the insurance repair.

Please do not feel obligated. Times are hard for me. Times are hard for everyone. Other friends have also tossed me some money outside of the GoFundMe, so things are looking pretty good. But if you can spare a little and feel like this is a worthwhile cause, I would be most glad.

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Posted in Roof

In Hot Water, Part 2

At the beginning of Part 1, I said I’d noticed two things about my furnace at the end of the last heating season. At the end of Part 1 I said the pump would not spin.

I was not surprised. Because the second thing I’d noticed last spring was that the pump was not completely silent.

So it was not a big shock that it was not spinning.

I drained a bunch of water from the system and took the pump off:


That gold part is because this is not the first time. These pumps come in iron and bronze. The bearing unit (this one’s painted gold) costs the same either way, and last time I needed to do this what they had on hand was a bronze one. So that’s what I installed.

Anyway, I got the bearing unit disconnected from the pump housing (on the right) and the motor (on the left). The motor was fine (yay!) but the bearing unit was seized. (aww!)

A couple of days later I acquired the rebuild manual for that bearing unit. Since it was stuck, I was confident I could not make it worse than “need a new one,” so I tried to repair it.

The good news is that I did get it moving again. The bad news is that it was not actually repairable. At some point some water had gotten into the oil, (probably because of a failing seal) and the oil cup was full of emulsified oil, water, and disintegrated cotton oil wicking. And rust flakes. Rust flakes do not aid in lubrication. So when I got the whole thing cleaned and put back together, it would rotate, but with a horrible scraping noise.

So really: “need a new one.”

Luckily, they’re not hard to find or expensive:

About $150 later I had the new one, mounted it to the motor, mounted the pump housing to it, and installed it. Added a lot of water to the system, and started it up. It spins just fine now. That all got done the day before the first actually chilly day.

So, just in time.

And I am warm.

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Posted in Plumbing

In Hot Water, Part 1

At the end of last heating season, I noticed two things about my furnace.

The first thing was that the pressure relief valve was seeping.

That’s not good. But it’s not bad bad, either. These things have a spring in them, calibrated so that if the pressure in my boiler (I have hot water radiators, remember) gets too high, the pressure will overcome the spring and release water onto my basement floor.

Which is not good, but better than the boiler exploding.

The thing about springs is that they get weaker over time. So over the years since the last time I replaced this valve, the spring had gotten weaker…and weaker…and weaker…until it was just about exactly the same as the working pressure of the boiler. So it didn’t spray water everywhere, but it did start to drip. There was a little wet spot on the floor under it, and the pipes between it and the boiler were quite rusted.

So since heat season was almost over, and replacing the valve involves shutting down everything and draining at least some of the water out, I waited.

A couple of weeks ago was our first cool day. This is when I start to make sure I will have heat. I want to discover the furnace won’t start when it’s 50 degrees out. I don’t want to discover the furnace won’t start when it’s 25 degrees out.

So I went down and drained out a bunch of water, so the water level was below where the pressure valve attaches. I wrenched off the valve and the quite rusted pipes, and went and bought a new valve. It looks like this:

…and a couple of new pipe parts to replace the quite rusted ones. Someday soon I’ll add some more pipe parts to the outlet side to direct water away better. I have a plan to direct water from the furnace and water that may leak from the water heater (which is nearby) to the same area of floor….and then put a z-wave leak detector there.

I closed up all the valves I’d opened, opened all the valves I’d closed, refilled the system, lit the pilot, and started the system up.

It didn’t start.

The pump would try, but would not spin. Over and over.

Stay tuned for part two….

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Posted in Plumbing

Trust the manufacturer…except don’t always.

My fridge is practically new: November of 2012

The freezer is a drawer on the bottom of the fridge. So there’s this plastic tray/shelf thing below the drawer; the bottom of the cavity in which it sits. About a year ago I started noticing this annoying behavior where that tray would fill up with ice over a period of weeks until it was full, then the fridge would start piddling on the floor. Break up and remove the ice and it’s fine for about 6 weeks until it gets full again.

A few weeks ago I had finally had enough of that. I called the manufacturer’s “technical support” line.

They call it technical support. But what it really is is the number you call to schedule a service call. She took my info, looked up the (expired) warranty and after I described the problem she immediately started trying to sell me “the most cost-effective option” for a service visit; a flat rate that covers all labor, parts, everything, and confers a new 1-year warranty.

That’s about 1/3 the cost of the fridge.

I said as much. She said the basic service call was $149 just to walk in the door, plus parts, labor, and…

I said “Hold on. I’m calling for technical support. I want you to help me figure out what’s wrong, not schedule a service visit.”

“Well with this problem, especially since you said it’s happening with the water feed shut off, we need to send someone out to figure it out.”

“Is there no troubleshooting we can do?”

“OK. Did you change the filter recently?”

“It has no filter and also I already said it happens with the water shut off.”

“Could there be a leak in the water feed line?”

“It happens with the water shut off.”

“Is it very humid where the unit is installed?”

“It is often humid in Chicago, yes.”

“Have you noticed any of the door seals torn?”


“Then the only way to figure out what is wrong is to send out a technician. The Plus One Option, which includes all labor and parts…”

“Thank you for your time.”

And then I turned to Google. It took me about 5 minutes to find the right keywords (“ice sheet bottom freezer”) to find other people posting all over the Internet about this issue, which is apparently endemic to bottom-freezer units from all manufacturers. The drain tube from the coil area to the drip pan is iced over. The solution is to defrost my frost-free fridge: shut off the unit, take out the drawer, take the back panel out of the freezer, and pour a cup or two of boiling water down the drain until it drains into the pan.

So this weekend I did that…mostly.

The Internet suggests that you have to take the back cover off the fridge to get at the drip pan, and the back of the freezer out to get at the iced-over coils. But the back of the freezer is blocked by other parts, like the track the drawers run on. So getting it all apart is a Major Project, and all you are trying to do by taking that all apart is speed the process. Getting at the coils allows you to pour boiling water over them.

It was 93°F on Saturday. A quart of boiling water seemed…gilding the lily. So I didn’t see the need to disassemble the whole freezer.

So I emptied the freezer into a cooler, made sure nothing in the fridge could not survive going from cold to cool, shut off the water, and unplugged the fridge. Took the back panel off, pulled the little rubber nipple off the drain. It had a tiny lump of styrofoam lodged in it. Maybe 4-6 beads-worth. This was undoubtedly a large part of my problem. I removed that, cleaned the nipple with soap (it apparently gets gummy with oil over time as oil in the air of the kitchen gets into the freezer, condenses on the coils, drips down with the water…) (The nipple is there to keep cold air from constantly flowing out the drain pipe)

Then I waited. In that heat it took just over an hour for water to start dripping into the drip pan. by 90 minutes it was mostly cleared of ice. A couple of turkey-baster squirts of boiling water along the bottom edge of the coils where they sit in the drain area and it was all done. I put everything back together, plugged it back in, turned the water back on, and waited.

Water went all over the kitchen floor.

The water connection to the ice maker was leaking. Just a little. The moving around had worked it loose.

A little wrench action later, the leak was solved. My fridge is frost free again. For real. Without any help from “technical Support.”

Posted in Appliances, Plumbing, Uncategorized

Kitchen drain clog madness!

My kitchen drain is…complex.

The drain pipe comes out of the wall barely lower than the bottom of the sink, and at a weird angle. From there there is a piece of flexible drain that corrects the weird angle (since it’s not an angle found in nature or stock drain parts) and then the P-trap. Above the P is a branch that comes from the disposal (this branch is almost completely co-planar with the pipe in the wall) and above that the main bowl of the sink.

In the wall, things get worse. There’s another weird angle bend to the left, then it joins the stack at a T: down for drain, up for vent. These bends make it almost impossible to get a snake past all that and down the stack: the end of the snake comes out of the T and strikes the side of the pipe squarely; it won’t go down (which is what I want) or up (which would do me no good anyway), and there are too many bends in all directions to get a kink at the end of the snake pointed the right way.

Down the stack is where my trouble is this time. Above the cleanout at the bottom of the stack in the basement, but below the T. If I try to use a pressure or vacuum solution in the kitchen, the vent above the T defeats me.

I have a couple of drain pressure bladders, and a Drain Blaster. The last time this happened I was able to put one of the bladders downstream of the cleanout and Y from the kitchen to plug that pipe, feed in the drain blaster, then one in the cleanout, and apply pressure to the clog from below until it was ejected into the kitchen with great force.

Since then the short garden hoses I used to hook these things all up are mostly missing. I have one 4-foot one left. I’d need four (one each to the two bladders, one to the Drain Blaster, and one to go from the faucet to where all those come together. I left the house yesterday after assessing the situation to do what I had to do and “somewhere along the way” pick up a few more hoses. But I found that I was running short of time all day, rushing to get where I was going on time and at the end of the day it was 11:30 pm and I still had no hoses.

So this morning I took another look at the situation. I opened up the cleanout and discovered a prodigious quantity of poo-brown gunk. Probably mostly actually poo, shoved there by the last main sewer backup. I took the Drain Blaster and the 4-foot hose, and threaded the blaster quite far down through the gunk. Then I turned it on and slowly pulled it back, clearing the blob of gunk from the back to the front as I did so. When it was all clear and “clean” I took a look.

Last time I’d been a little prissy about putting my hand in the sewer, which is why I devised the system with the two bladders etc. Since then I’ve done things a lot worse than putting my hand in a freshly-rinsed sewer pipe. I reached in and was able to bend the Drain Blaster around the corner and start it up the stack toward the kitchen. I turned it on and with my hand in the sewer to keep feeding it around the corner I slowly fed it up the stack, cleaning the crud from the walls of the pipe as I did so. Eventually I hit the clog. Bigger bits started falling on my hand. Then a lot of bits and some cold water. I reversed, slowly working back and forth through the trouble area, then slowly back down the pipe.

I went up into the kitchen and filled the sink. It drains well.

Now I need a shower because I’ve been in a sewer. But I used all the hot water clearing the sewer. Oops.

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Posted in Plumbing, Tools